Closed Terrariums

Terrarium plant care is mostly about balancing moisture, light, and airflow. Here’s a clear, practical guide you can follow

1. Light

Bright, indirect light is ideal.

Avoid direct sun—it can overheat the glass and scorch plants.

Near an east- or north-facing window works well.

If light is low, a grow light (8–12 hrs/day) is a good backup.

2. Watering

This is the most common mistake.

Water very sparingly (often once every few weeks or even months).

You should see light condensation in the morning that disappears by midday.

If glass stays foggy → too much water (open lid to dry it out).

Use a spray bottle or small pipette to avoid flooding.

⚠️ Never let water pool at the bottom unless you have a drainage layer.

3. Humidity

Closed terrariums naturally maintain high humidity.

Open terrariums suit plants that prefer moderate humidity.

If leaves are shriveling → too dry.

If mold appears → too humid, increase airflow.

When to leave the lid off (temporarily):

Excess Condensation: If the glass is completely foggy or dripping heavily, take the lid off for a few hours to let it dry out and regulate humidity.
Overwatering: Open it for a day or two to help excess moisture evaporate, but remove dead leaves first to prevent rot.
Airing Out: Even closed terrariums benefit from brief, periodic (weekly) lid removal to introduce fresh air and prevent stagnant conditions. 

4. Temperature

Ideal range: 65–80°F (18–27°C).

Keep away from heaters, AC vents, and cold drafts.

5. Pruning & Maintenance

Trim plants regularly to prevent overcrowding.

Remove dead or yellowing leaves immediately (prevents mold).

Clean glass occasionally for better light penetration.

6. Fertilizing

Rarely needed.

If necessary, use very diluted fertilizer (¼ strength) no more than 1–2 times a year.

Over-fertilizing causes rapid, weak growth.

7. Mold & Pests

White fuzzy mold → remove affected soil/plant and increase airflow, leave lid off briefly to decrease excess moisture

Fungus gnats → reduce watering and remove decaying matter.

Small springtails are beneficial and help keep mold in check.

8. Best Plants for Terrariums

Great choices:

Mosses

Fittonia (nerve plant)

Ferns (button, maidenhair)

Peperomia

Pilea

Selaginella

Avoid:

Succulents (unless open terrarium)

Fast-growing or woody plants

Plants that need full sun

Springtails (Tiny Organisms For Closed Terrariums)

Springtails are tiny, soil-dwelling hexapods, typically 0.1 inch (2.5 mm) or less. Often grayish, white, or black, they require high moisture to survive, feeding on fungi and decaying organic matter. They are harmless to humans, do not bite, and are beneficial for soil health. They are essential for a successful bioactive terrarium.

Key reasons for including springtails:
Mold and Fungus Control: They are highly effective at eating mold, which commonly appears in high-humidity, enclosed bioactive environments, particularly on wood or waste.
Waste Decomposition (Detritivores): They consume decaying plant material, feces, and leftover food, converting it into nutrients that fertilize the soil for live plants.
Preventing Odor: By breaking down waste promptly, they prevent the buildup of bacteria and unpleasant odors within the enclosed system.
Soil Aeration: As they move through the substrate, they help aerate the soil, which is crucial for healthy root growth.
Biodiversity: They are a necessary part of the microfauna and help ensure the success of a closed terrarium.

Open Terrariums

Succulents do well in open terrariums as long as they get lots of light, excellent drainage, and very careful watering. Here’s a focused care guide tailored just for succulent open terrariums:

1. Container Drainage (Most Important)

Open container only — never sealed.

Drainage hole is strongly recommended.

If no hole: add a thick drainage layer (gravel + charcoal) and water very lightly.

Use a shallow container to prevent moisture buildup.

Ideal soil mix

Cactus/succulent soil amended with grit
(≈ 50% cactus mix + 50% perlite, pumice, or coarse sand)

2. Light

Bright light for 6–8 hours daily.

Some direct sun is good (morning sun is safest).

If indoors and stretching occurs → add a grow light.

Place 6–12 inches above plants

Run 10–12 hrs/day

3. Watering (Less Is More)

Water only when soil is completely dry.

Use the soak-and-dry method:

Water thoroughly

Let excess drain out

Typical schedule:

Every 2–3 weeks indoors

Less in winter

Signs of overwatering:

Mushy, translucent leaves

Leaves dropping easily

Mold or algae on soil

Signs of under watering:

Wrinkled, shriveled leaves

4. Airflow & Humidity

Normal household humidity is perfect.

Avoid bathrooms or kitchens.

Gentle airflow helps prevent rot.

5. Temperature

Ideal: 65–85°F (18–29°C)

Protect from frost and extreme heat near windows.

6. Fertilizing

Optional and minimal.

Use ¼-strength cactus fertilizer

Only once or twice during spring/summer

7. Plant Spacing & Pruning

Leave space between plants for airflow.

Remove dead leaves promptly.

Trim stretched growth and re-root cuttings if needed.

8. Best Succulents for Open Terrariums

Choose slow-growing, compact varieties:

Cacti: Various mini varieties.

Echeveria: Rosette succulents.

Haworthia (Zebra Plant): Striking rosette forms.

Jade Plant (Crassula ovata): Classic, easy care.

Sedum: Trailing or cushion varieties.

Lithops (Living Stones): Unique, stone-like appearance. 

Foliage Trailing Plants (Moist, Indirect Light)

Air Plants (Tillandsia): Don't need soil.

Baby's Tears (Soleirolia soleirolii): Dense mat of tiny leaves.

Fittonia (Nerve Plant): Colorful, veined leaves.

Pilea (Chinese Money Plant/Friendship Plant): Coin-shaped leaves.

Peperomia: Many varieties, good for propagation.

Spider Plant (Bonnie): Trailing with striped leaves.

Spiderwort (Tradescantia): Trailing stems, vibrant leaves. 

Ficus Ginseng Bonsai: Great focal point.

Snake Plant (Sansevieria): Upright growth. 

Haworthia

Gasteria

Aloe (small varieties)

Crassula (small types)

Lithops (if very dry conditions)

❌ Avoid:

Large agaves

Fast-growing echeveria indoors without strong light

Mixing succulents with non-succulents

Pro Tips

Top-dress with gravel to keep leaves dry.

Rotate container monthly for even growth.

If unsure about watering → wait another week.

Closed Aquarium Terrarium

A closed aquarium terrarium is a self-sustaining ecosystem inside a sealed glass container, usually utilizing aquatic or high-humidity plants to create a living, breathing, miniature world. It relies on activated carbon for purification, and a sealed lid to manage its own moisture cycle.

How it Functions:
Water Cycle: The moisture in the soil evaporates, condenses on the container walls, and drips back down to water the plants.
Nutrient Cycle: Plants grow, die, and are broken down by microbes and springtails, releasing nutrients back into the soil.
Light: The terrarium should be kept in a well-lit area but away from direct, scorching sunlight

The brilliant part about having a totally closed aquarium terrarium… besides dusting it on occasion, and making sure it isn’t in direct sunlight, that's literally all you need to worry about! You don’t have to water anything because the enclosure keeps the water from evaporating. and there's no need to clean it because there’s no air circulating.

Air Plants

Air plants, or Tillandsia, are soil-free epiphytes (like Spanish moss) that absorb water and nutrients through specialized leaf scales (trichomes) from air, rain, and dust.

1. Light
Bright, indirect light: A few hours of morning sun is okay, but harsh afternoon sun can scorch them.
Alternatives: Near a sunny window (east/south facing) or under a grow light for 12 hours daily.
Too much sun: Pale, white leaves. 

2. Watering (Soaking Method)
Frequency: Soak in water for 20-30 minutes every 1-2 weeks, depending on humidity.
Water Type: Room temperature tap water or rainwater; avoid softened water.
After Soaking: Shake off excess water and let them dry upside down on a towel for a few hours.
Misting: Can supplement soaks with misting a few times a week, but misting alone isn't enough. 

3. Airflow: Excellent air circulation is crucial to prevent rot.

4.Temperature: Keep them in warm conditions (50-90°F) and away from cold drafts.

5. Fertilizer: Use a diluted bromeliad or air plant fertilizer (1/4 strength) in the water once a month.
No Soil: Never plant them in soil; they absorb water and nutrients through their leaves.
Flowers/Pups: After flowering, the mother plant may die, but it will produce "pups" (offsets). 

Orchids

Orchids are easier than they look once you match the care to the type. Here’s a clear, beginner-friendly guide, with notes for the most common orchids

1. Light

Bright, indirect light is ideal.

East- or south-facing window with sheer curtain works well.

Leaves should be medium green:

Dark green → too little light

Yellow/red tint → too much light

2. Watering

Orchids prefer thorough watering followed by drying.

Water once every 7–10 days (less in winter).

Use room-temperature water.

Let water run through the pot completely.

Never let orchids sit in standing water.

💡 Tip: Water in the morning so leaves dry by night.

3. Humidity

Ideal humidity: 40–70%

Use a humidity tray or room humidifier if air is dry.

Light misting is okay, but avoid water pooling in the crown.

4. Temperature

Day: 65–80°F (18–27°C)

Night: 55–65°F (13–18°C)

Slight night temperature drop helps trigger blooms.

5. Potting & Medium

Use orchid bark, sphagnum moss, or a mix (never regular soil).

Clear pots help monitor root health.

Repot every 1–2 years, ideally after flowering.

Healthy roots = green/silver and firm
Unhealthy roots = brown, mushy, hollow

6. Fertilizing

Weakly is best:

¼-strength orchid fertilizer

Fertilize during active growth.

Flush with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup.

7. Airflow

Gentle airflow prevents rot and disease.

Avoid cold drafts or strong fans directly on the plant.

8. Flowering Care

Blooms last weeks to months.

After blooms fade:

Phalaenopsis: Cut spike above a node for possible rebloom.

Other orchids: Cut spike at base.

9. Common Orchid Types & Differences

Phalaenopsis (Moth Orchid) – Best for beginners

Low–medium light

Blooms 1–2× per year

Cattleya

Brighter light

Drier between watering

Dendrobium

Some need a cooler, drier winter rest

Oncidium

Likes evenly moist but airy roots

10. Common Problems

Wrinkled leaves → under watering or root loss

Bud blast (buds falling) → temp or humidity stress

Yellow leaves → overwatering or too much sun

Snake Plants (Mother-In-Law's Tongue)

Snake plants (Dracaena trifasciata), known for their stiff, sword-shaped leaves, are extremely low-maintenance, drought-tolerant, and thrive on neglect, making them ideal for beginners. 

1. Light

Ideal: Bright, indirect light (e.g., east or west-facing window).
Tolerant: Can adapt to low-light corners but may grow slower.
Avoid: Intense, direct afternoon sun which can scorch leaves.

2. Watering

Frequency: Water every 2-3 weeks in warm months, monthly or less in winter.
Check soil: Always let the top 2-3 inches (or all of it) dry out completely before watering again.
Method: Water thoroughly until it drains out, then empty the saucer.
Signs of overwatering: Mushy, yellowing leaves; signs of root rot.

3. Soil & Potting

Soil: Well-draining mix (cactus/succulent or standard soil amended with perlite/sand).
Pot: Snake plants prefer slightly snug, shallow pots that are only a bit larger than their root ball and they must have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

4. Temperature & Humidity

Temperature: Prefers 65-85°F (18-29°C); avoid cold drafts below 50°F (10°C).
Humidity: Tolerates typical indoor humidity; doesn't need misting.

5. Feeding & Maintenance

Fertilizer: Lightly feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer (half strength) during spring and summer.
Winter: Do not fertilize in fall/winter.
Cleaning: Wipe leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust.

6. Troubleshooting

Overwatering & Root Rot (Most Common): Leaves turn yellow, soft, mushy at the base, and fall over.
Fix: Let the soil dry completely between waterings, reduce watering frequency (e.g., once a month), ensure the pot has drainage holes, and consider repotting in a succulent/cactus mix.

Underwatering: Leaves become wrinkled, puckered, or develop brown, crispy tips.
Fix: Water the plant thoroughly, but still allow the soil to dry out afterwards.

Drooping or Leaning Leaves: Caused by overwatering (mushy base) or insufficient light (stretching).
Fix: Check soil moisture; ensure it gets bright, indirect light rather than shade.

Brown Spots or Tips: Caused by excessive direct sunlight (sunburn), cold drafts, or over-fertilizing.
Fix: Move to a spot with bright, indirect light; keep temperatures above 50 degrees

Venus Flytraps

Monsteras

To care for a Monstera, provide bright, indirect light, water when the topsoil is dry (letting it drain well), mist occasionally for humidity, use a well-draining soil, and offer support like a moss pole as it grows, while rotating the pot for even growth and cleaning the leaves to help them photosynthesize.  

1. Light

Ideal: Bright, indirect light; near a north, east, or west-facing window.
Avoid: Direct, intense sun, which can scorch leaves; too little light causes leggy growth. 

2. Watering & Humidity

Watering: Use the "soak-and-dry" method; water thoroughly when the top few inches of soil are dry, typically every 7-10 days, but adjust for your home's conditions. 
Drainage: Always use a pot with drainage holes to prevent root rot. 
Humidity: Prefers 40-60%; mist regularly or use a humidifier, especially in dry environments. 

3. Soil & Fertilizer

Soil: Needs well-draining, aerated soil (a chunky mix works well). 
Fertilizer: Feed with a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly during the growing season (spring/summer). 

4. Support & Pruning

Support: Use a moss pole or stake for aerial roots to climb, mimicking their natural habitat. 
Pruning: Trim to control size and shape, but never remove more than one-third of the plant at once. 

5. Maintenance

Clean Leaves: Wipe leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust for better light absorption.
Rotate: Turn the pot a quarter turn at each watering to ensure even growth. 

6. Troubleshooting
Brown/Crispy Edges: Could be low humidity or too much direct sun. 
Droopy Leaves: Often a sign of inconsistent watering (either too much or too little). 

Pothos

Pothos care is easy: provide bright, indirect light (but tolerate low light), water when the topsoil is dry (about every 1-2 weeks), use well-draining soil, and keep at average room temperatures (65-85°F). Water thoroughly but allow drainage; overwatering causes root rot, while pale leaves mean too much sun. Trim vines for bushier growth and wipe dusty leaves occasionally. 

1. Light

Best: Bright, indirect light.
Tolerates: Low light, but variegation may fade and growth slows.
Avoid: Direct sun, which scorches leaves. 

2. Watering

When: Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil are dry.
How: Water thoroughly until it drains from the pot's bottom, then discard excess water from the saucer.
Signs: Droopy leaves mean it's thirsty; yellowing leaves or black spots mean overwatering. 

3. Soil & Potting

Use a well-draining potting mix.
Ensure the pot has drainage holes to prevent root rot. 

4. Temperature & Humidity

Temperature: Average room temps (65-85°F); avoid cold drafts.
Humidity: Prefers humidity; kitchens/bathrooms are great, or mist/use a humidifier. 

5. Feeding & Pruning
Fertilizer: Feed monthly during spring/summer with a diluted liquid fertilizer; less in winter.
Pruning: Trim vines above a leaf node to encourage bushier growth and remove yellow/dead leaves. 
Other Tips
Wipe large leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust.

Peace Lilly

The Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum sp.) is a gorgeous house plant. It is known as the closet plant, because it does well in low-light conditions, making it a good plant for homes and offices. It is a member of the family Araceae, which includes caladiums, elephant ears, and callas, making it not a true lily. The white bloom is long lasting, showy, unique in shape, and is slightly fragrant. Best of all, the Peace Lily is an easy plant to grow for a novice and expert.

1.Soil

The plant prefers well-drained potting soil. It often tends to get rootbound. You will know when to transplant if you see roots appearing through the drainage holes or can see the roots circle the top of the soil.

2. Water

Use room-temperature water that has sat out overnight. Sitting overnight will allow the chlorine in the water to evaporate. The soil should be kept moist, but not soggy. Slightly allow the soil to dry a bit between waterings. Do not let the plant sit in water, because will cause root problems.

3. Light

Bright, indirect light is the best. It mimics the shade it grows in its normal habitat. An east-facing window, which gets morning light, or a north window would be an ideal location.

4. Temperature

Place in a location that is 65 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Avoid any area that is 55 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. The plant will die if exposed to cool temperatures for a long time.

5. Fertilizer

Fertilize in the spring and summer using an organic fertilizer. Organic fertilizer works better, because Peace Lilies are very sensitive to chemicals.

Problems and Solutions

Root and stem diseases can occur if the plant is being overwatered.
Pests include scales, mealybugs, and fungal gnats, which all feed on the Peace Lily.
Brown tip leaves are caused by excessive light, over-fertilizing, low water, or low humidity.
Yellow leaves will occur if it is overwatered or underwatered.
Older leaves will yellow if the plant has not been repotted in a while.
Drooping or wilting leaves happen when it is not receiving enough water.

African Violet

African violets are a compact houseplant that blooms several times a year. Known for their rosette of thick, fuzzy leaves and violet-like flowers, African violets are pretty slow-growing. The plant has a reputation for being difficult to care for, but it can easily thrive if given the right conditions.

1. Light
African violets do well in bright but not direct sunlight. They are commonly grown under fluorescent lights placed 12 to 15 inches above the leaves. If the leaves start getting light green, your plant is getting too much light, while thin and dark green leaves or a leggy plant indicate too little light.

2. Soil
African violets hate being wet and are prone to root rot, so plant them in a well-draining potting mix, and ensure they're not exposed to standing water for an extended period of time.

3. Water
Keep soil moist with warm water and strive for high humidity. Use a moisture meter to determine how often to water instead of watering on a set schedule. Do not allow water to contact the leaves of the plant to prevent damage. Water from below, or push the water spout into the soil when watering. Don't allow the plant to sit in water.

4. Temperature and Humidity
African violets like warm and humid conditions and thrive at 70°F. Do not allow the temperature to fall below about 60°F. Keep the plants away from any drafts in the home.

5. Fertilizer
Feed with an African violet fertilizer every other week during the spring and summer. For the amount to use, follow product label instructions.

Spider Plant

The spider plant is native to southern Africa, where it lives in the humid understory of tropical forests. They are known for their long, slender leaves and the unique baby plants (pups or "spiderettes") that dangle from the mother plant. 

1. Lighting & Temperature

Light: Bright, indirect light is best, but they tolerate medium light. Avoid harsh, direct sun, which can scorch leaves.
Temperature: Average indoor temperatures (above 65°F/18°C) are ideal. Keep away from frosty drafts. 

2. Watering & Soil

Water: Water deeply when the top inch of soil is dry. Allow excess water to drain out to prevent root rot.
Soil: Use a well-draining potting mix.
Tip Browning: Brown tips often indicate fluoride/chlorine in tap water; use distilled or rainwater to help prevent this. 

3. Feeding & Humidity

Fertilizer: Feed monthly with a balanced liquid fertilizer during the growing season (spring/summer).
Humidity: They enjoy humidity; mist occasionally or place in a humid bathroom or kitchen. 

4. Pruning & Repotting
Pruning: Trim brown tips and yellow leaves as needed.
Repotting: Repot every couple of years or when root-bound, choosing a pot slightly larger with good drainage. 

5. Producing Pups (Spiderettes) 
To encourage baby plantlets (pups), ensure adequate light (12+ hours/day), proper moisture, and room to grow; sometimes crowding encourages pup production

Fiddle Leaf Fig

Fiddle leaf figs are finicky. They want a certain level of light and humidity. They dislike soil that is too wet or too dry and drafts.  The trick is to learn to "listen" to your plant and make adjustments on the onset of any issue. 

1. Light
Requirement: Bright, indirect light; 6-8 hours daily is ideal.
Placement: Near an east-facing window is great; south/west windows need the plant a few feet back to filter harsh sun.
Tip: Rotate the plant every few weeks so all sides get light and growth stays balanced. 

2. Watering & Soil
When to water: Water when the top half (or 2 inches) of soil is dry.
How to water: Water slowly and thoroughly until water drains from the bottom.
Drainage: Empty the saucer; never let the pot sit in water to prevent root rot.
Soil: Use a well-draining mix. 

3. Humidity & Temperature
Humidity: Prefers above-average humidity (around 60-70%); mist leaves or use a humidifier.
Temperature: Keep in a stable temperature range, avoiding cold drafts or sudden blasts from AC/heating vents. 

4. Feeding & Cleaning
Fertilizer: Feed monthly with a diluted liquid fertilizer during spring and summer.
Dusting: Wipe leaves with a damp cloth every few weeks to help with photosynthesis. 

5. Troubleshooting
Brown leaf edges: Often a sign of low humidity or inconsistent watering.
Leaf drop: Usually from overwatering or sudden environmental changes.
Brown spots: Can be sunburn from too much direct, harsh sun. 

10 Popular Houseplants That Are Poisonous To Cats And Dogs

Houseplants are a great way to spruce up the look and feel of your home. However, if you have cats or dogs, you should know that many popular and common plants are actually poisonous and dangerous to your pets.

Snake Plant
This very common plant can cause excessive salivation, pain, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea

Philodendron (Monstera Included)
Philodendron is an extremely popular houseplant that contains calcium oxalate crystals, which cause a series of toxic reactions for cats and dogs. If ingested, Philodendron can cause mouth, throat and lip irritation, excessive drooling, burning sensations, vomiting, difficulty in swallowing, and diarrhea.

Pothos
Pothos, a close relative of Philodendron, causes the same symptoms of Philodendron if ingested, such as choking, drooling, swelling of mouth and tongue, difficulty breathing, and stomach upset. 

Peace Lily
Information about the toxicity of Peace Lily is somewhat conflicting; this plant is likely to be toxic only if large quantities of the leaves are eaten. Some of the symptoms are burning mouth, excessive salivation, diarrhea, dehydration, lack of appetite, and vomiting. If left untreated, Peace-Lily poisoning could lead to renal failure.

English Ivy
If ingested, English Ivy can cause skin irritation, burning throat, fever, diarrhea, hyperactivity, gasping breaths, weakness, tremors, staggering, and vomiting.

Aloe Plant
Aloe is a popular succulent for both aesthetic and practical reasons, but if your pet ends up eating the plant's leaves, they will develop severe bouts of vomiting as well as red-tinged urine.

Cactus
All species of Cacti are considered dangerous for pets. If ingested, cats and dogs can experience throat and internal injuries due to the thorns as well as skin inflammation and vomiting due to the toxins.

ZZ Plant
All parts of the Zamioculcas Zamifolia, aka ZZ Plant, are considered toxic to humans and pets. Keep this plant away from kids and pets, and wash your hands or wear gloves when you handle it.

Jade Plant
People love to admire the Jade Plant's rubbery leaves, but if a cat or dog eats them, it will cause depression, vomiting, loss of coordination, and slow heart rate.

Caladium
All parts of Caladium are considered toxic to humans and animals. If ingested, it can cause your pet to have nausea, vomit, head shaking, drooling, and difficulty breathing.

What to Do If You Think Your Pet Has Ingested a Toxic Plant:
Stay calm – Panic can stress your pet more.
Remove your pet from the source of the toxin.
Call your veterinarian, Pet Poison Helpline (855-764-7661), or ASPCA Animal Poison Control (888-426-4435).
Provide details: What your pet ate, how much, and when.